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Natural gemstones in handcrafted jewellery

I work with natural gemstones in my handcrafted jewellery and brooches, each stone selected for its character, structure and light.

Every gemstone carries a history, formed over thousands or millions of years deep within the earth.

Light and color in gemstones

The colour of a gemstone is created through light, through refraction, reflection and internal structure.

Subtle variations give rise to depth and nuance, revealing new qualities in changing light.

A living material

A gemstone changes with its environment, its colour and presence shifting with light and movement.

Gemstone resting in the maker’s hand, examined for color and character
Barrel shaped rough sapphire crystal

Crystal structures and order

Gemstones grow according to specific crystal structures. This order determines form, direction, and optical properties.

What moves me is how this strict structure leaves room for variation. No two stones grow in exactly the same way.

Order and deviation

It is precisely these small deviations that make each stone unique.

Trace elements: making the invisible visible

Small amounts of elements such as iron, chromium, titanium, or manganese give a stone its colour and identity. They are invisible to the naked eye, yet determine so much.

Small causes, great effect

Iron as a trace element in quartz produces the orange-yellow colour of citrine (Fe³⁺), and the purple colour of amethyst as (Fe²⁺).

Two cut gemstones, an amethyst and a citrine
Natural gemstone (aquamarine) with visible inclusions formed over thousands of years of growth

Inclusions and natural formation

Inclusions are not imperfections, but traces of growth.
They reveal the natural processes that formed the stone over time.

Character over perfection

It is these natural variations that give each gemstone its individuality.

Optical phenomena

Some gemstones display remarkable optical effects when light touches their surface: star patterns, silky sheen, or shifting light bands.
These effects emerge from specific structures or inclusions that guide the light uniquely, revealing what is usually hidden.

When light tells the story

Rutile needles in sapphire lie within the hexagonal crystal structure and, when the stone is cut as a cabochon, reflect a star of light on the surface.

Gemstone (sapphire) displaying an optical effect where light creates a star-like pattern on the surface
Gemstone set in a handmade brooch, guiding the overall design

Gemstones in my work

In my jewellery, gemstones are not decorative elements, but essential partners in the design.

Each stone guides the form of the piece, creating a dialogue between material, light and craftsmanship.

“Within every jewel lives a fragment of light, born from the silence of the earth.”
Jorrit ten Berg
© Jorrit ten Berg - designer | thinker | creator -